Mr Taco

Driving past the tiny strip mall on Bowden shortly after the opening of Mr Taco, I audibly scoffed and flippantly proclaimed that I wouldn't be eating there. But after a few more passes over the following months, my curiosity about this little taquiera started to grow. Then the recommendations from trusted sources started trickling in. My initial prejudice was certainly out of order considering that most of my favorite restaurants are hole-in-the-walls with almost equally ridiculous names. So Mr Taco became a top priority, if only to clear my conscience for dismissing it so easily.

This particular strip mall on Bowden isn't particularly inviting. There's a small grocery store, which is essentially a cheap beer and wine depot with some snacks, and the parking lot is usually pretty empty. The Mr Taco logo above the restaurant's facade, with its sombrero wearing, mustachioed Mexicano might strike one as being a bit derogatory but as soon as you step through the door it becomes apparent that the owners and operators of the place are only engaging in some self caricaturization. Betraying his tough appearance, the guy who jumped up to take our order (who I believe may be the owner) couldn't have been any nicer or more welcoming. If warm service is one of your top priorities, they don't come much friendlier than Mr Taco.

Picking a representative menu item was a bit of a challenge. Despite feeling compelled to try the tacos because of the name, we both settled on burritos (I can't resist the allure of a good burrito) but resolved to go back and try the multitude of tacos, tortas, and quesadillas. We'd barely settled into our seats after raiding the salsa bar when our food came out. I'd imagine it might take a little longer when they're busy but that was still a lot faster than expected.

What can I say about the Chicken Fajita Burrito? I've had some amazing burritos and this ranks up among the best. While not taking the crown, there's certainly a lot of flavor and the chicken was sauteed in an absolutely delicious sauce. Definitely better than I had anticipated and enough to warrant repeat visits. Akin to really great street food you might get when traveling in distant lands and similarly priced.

Once again the best restaurants are found in the most surprising locations (with the most surprising names). Those who like authentic Mexican cuisine or even Mexican inspired food are doing themselves a disservice by not stopping in. And while I doubt Mr Taco will ever become as astonishingly popular as a similarly named local taquiera, I hope they'll at least get the appreciation they deserve.




Mr Taco
6426 Bowden Rd
Jacksonville, FL 32216

Queen of Sheba

Queen of Sheba is like the fabled city of Brigadoon, appearing for a short amount of time every few years and then vanishing without a trace. I first heard about the place many years back via word of mouth. Intrigued by the idea of Ethiopian cuisine, I tried numerous times over the years to track it down but could find nothing. The website still lists two former addresses; one on Bowden, one on Emerson, neither of which existed the few times I tried in vain to stop by. As you can imagine, I was quite overjoyed to find out that they had recently re-appeared off Atlantic and I resolved to stop by before the next scheduled vanishing.

Ethiopian cuisine is characterized by abundance of spiced meat and vegetable dishes; most in a thick, stew-like form similar in consistency to many of the heartier, lentil based curries of India. These dishes are eaten using pieces of injera, a unique, sourdough flatbread which is quite like a pancake in its consistency and texture but with a sour, doughy flavor. This is your only utensil.

The Queen of Sheba's location is sketchy enough to scare away more cautious diners and the decor is on par with many of my favorite ethnic dives around town. In these surrounds, it's easy to imagine that you're overseas in a less prosperous place and, for me at least, this is an essential component to the experience.

Being curious and wanting to try as much as I could, I fought the urge to try some amazing sounding dishes and settled on the meat platter. I can't remember the names of the items presented in the sampler but they probably wouldn't mean anything to you anyway. Beef, lamb, chicken were all present and in abundance though they were largely unrecognizable in their spicy, stewed form. Overall the sampler was rather good with a unique array of spices. Some of the dishes were quite unlike anything I'd tried before.

One great thing about the Queen of Sheba and Ethiopian cuisine in general is that there's always lots of vegetarian options. We ordered the Misir Wot: Split red lentils cooked in red pepper sauce. They were really good and pleasantly spicy. Despite being forever tempted by meat and veggie dishes when we dine out, I might not be able to resist this one on a return visit.

My one word of advice to anyone intrigued enough to visit would be to take it easy on the bread; it's very filling and causes a gastric sensation I'm not quite used to which can be unsettling for a first timer.

Our first sampling of Ethiopian food was quite the experience and I'm glad I finally caught up with the ever elusive Queen of Sheba. I love that we have a decent number of small places serving ethnic cuisines and I only wish there were more.




Queen of Sheba
10214 Atlantic Blvd
Jacksonville, FL 32225
(904) 721-1001

Picasso's

You might think you're lost. Or maybe you think that you wandered onto the set of one of those post-apocalyptic movies. Perhaps it's just signs of the recession that make this hidden enclave of a strip mall just North of Whole Foods seem so desolate. In these strange surrounds you will find Picasso's, one of Jacksonville's oddest restaurants.

Jacksonville's restaurant scene has its share of strange. There's the amazing yet frightening Clark's Fish Camp, a true redneck utopia; the culture shock of Fu Hing Seafood Restaurant; and the highly disorienting atmosphere of Angie's Diner. Picasso's, despite the images conjured up by its namesake, isn't odd in such an overt way but a quick perusal of the menu sheds some light on its uniqueness.

Picasso's is a restaurant without culinary borders where Chicken Parmesan and Chicken Pot Pie sit together on the menu as do Shrimp and Grits and Fish and Chips. There's also three different styles of pizza: St. Louis, New York, and Mediterranean; with almost 60 available toppings. Rather than decide to stick to a particular style of cuisine or dabble in a few creative meals, the minds behind Picasso's have devoted themselves to cooking every meal they've ever enjoyed. This is not a bad thing.

Apparently it gets a bit busy much of the time but we managed to avoid the crowds on our lunch time visit. Unfortunately, we didn't bring much of an appetite with us so the breadth of our experience is lacking. One “Da” House Salad and one Kentucky Hot Brown were our sole items, slight in quantity but more than satisfactory in quality.

Da House Salad (romaine and iceberg lettuce, shaved red onions, pimientos, and artichoke hearts with a special, secret dressing)is delightfully balanced salad. Artichoke hearts are becoming more prevalent in salads these days but often they appear out of place amongst the other flavors; here they blended quite well. Juxtaposing the crisp, healthy salad was the Kentucky Hot Brown: an open faced turkey breast sandwich covered in a cheesy Mornay sauce, topped with applewood-smoked bacon and roasted tomato, sprinkled with paprika and fresh parmigiano-reggiano, and then baked until bubbling hot. Despite intending to order a light meal, I somehow ended up with this decadent mountain of calories and thoroughly enjoyed each deliciously waist-expanding bite.

Picasso's, much like the artist, is an oddity; a gathering place for meals that have no obvious connection. But if our little experience has anything to say, there does seem to be one common thread among them: quality. This is one place that bears repeat visits to get a full experience.



Picasso's
10503 San Jose Blvd
Jacksonville, FL 32257
(904) 880-0811

The Back 40 Urban Cafe

Many great restaurants are hidden in plain sight, some are just plain hidden. Without performing a search on Urbanspoon, I would never have heard about St. Augustine's Back 40 Urban Cafe, nor would I have noticed it at all on the remote chance I happened to drive by. Not only is it located on Old Dixie Highway, a small road running parallel to US 1 at a point where most of the traffic is limited to residents of the area, but the restaurant looks like a house... because it was a house.

Despite its old Southern charm, the small wooden cottage is easy to ignore and one is liable to question their judgment when approaching the porch. But once inside, doubts and concerns all quickly evaporated. The layout of the restaurant retains the structure of a house. When business is slow you can choose from an array of empty rooms, each with their own individual color schemes and ambiance. The atmosphere and tone are warm and welcoming, truly engendering an at-home level of comfort. For such a small place, the menu is relatively large and varied with an emphasis on fresh, healthy food and leaning towards Southern and Southwestern inspired cuisine.

Forever unable to resist the allure of fish tacos, I ordered the Ollie Tacos (lightly seasoned mahi topped with shredded cheese lettuce, salsa, cilantro and cilantro white sauce). I've eaten many a fish taco at restaurants across the globe and I must say that these were truly some of the most delicious I've ever had. The meat had a perfect flavor and consistency, the accompanying vegetables were crisp and fresh, and the sides were delightful in their own right. The Vegetarian 3 Bean Chili was far better balanced in flavor than many others I've tasted; neither weak nor overly spiced with a good consistency. Not being able to see even the smallest amount of food go to waste, I cleaned up what was left of the amazing Shrimp Curry Salad; best dressing ever, and that's coming from someone who routinely refuses salad dressings all together.

There's an incredible number of options to choose from for such a low-key place and, if our meal is anything to go by, the more well known places around town have something to be afraid of. There are a handful of truly superb restaurants in St. Augustine and the Back 40 Urban Cafe is the unknown champion among them. Delightful food made with fresh ingredients and served in an intriguing old house with a unique atmosphere. A real hidden gem and yet another reminder that there are some incredible places to eat and things to do around the area that are just waiting to be found by anybody willing to do a little searching.

The Back 40 Urban Cafe
40 South Dixie Highway
St Augustine, FL 32084
(904) 824-0227

The French Pantry

Some secrets are hard to keep. It's so tempting to be selfish and leave this stone unturned but, alas, I found out about this hidden treasure from the almighty Urbanspoon anyway so I guess there's no harm in enlightening a few more people.

On a street you'd probably never think to turn down and hidden in what looks like a warehouse (although it may be easy to spot due to the massive line of eager patrons), is a real anomaly within Jacksonville's dining landscape, The French Pantry. I had no idea this place existed until I became actively involved with and reliant upon Urbanspoon to share and discover great places to eat around town. As of now, The French Pantry is #6 on Jacksonville's Best 100 Restaurants. At the time I first saw it on that list it was a little higher and was the only entry in at least the top 15 that I had never heard of. The glowing reviews and enticing menu put it at the top of my list of places to visit but the hours of operation, Weekdays from 11am to 2:15pm, meant that months passed when I had no opportunity to go or, on a rare holiday, I tragically forgot.

But on a recent holiday we decided to try this hidden marvel and judge its awesomeness for ourselves. Despite it being fairly close to home and the directions being quite clear, it was a little hard to spot at first until we saw the enormous line of people waiting outside. We were in line for approximately 45 minutes, maybe an hour. Regardless, it was a long time. I was told that, because it was a holiday, it was a bit busier than usual but a wait is to be expected. Under normal circumstances it would have been easy to complain about such a situation but those were definitely not normal circumstances. We were, after all, at the doors to Jacksonville's best kept secret.

Betraying the unappealing, government warehouse look of the exterior, The interior of The French Pantry is, for lack of a better term, terrifically cute. It's almost like walking into a country cottage and when you're inside you truly forget the incongruous external surroundings. As you slowly make your way to the counter you have plenty of time to look over the large menus by the door and drool over the wonderful looking desserts. Even in the face of my general dislike of sweet things and confections, I was incredibly tempted to sample some or all of the cakes.

But finally we made it to the counter and put in our order: one Portabello Panini and one Rare Beef and Boursin Sandwich. Clocking in at an average of $9 per sandwich, one is inclined to get a bit of sticker shock but, as an added bonus, you get a basket of bread with some olive oil and herb dipping sauce to hold you over while you anxiously await your sandwich. But sandwich or not, I wouldn't have felt too hard done to had I just paid $9 for the bread and dipping oil. That was honestly some of the best bread I have ever tasted. Not-so-coincidentally, the French Pantry is also a wholesale bakery, supplying amazing bread to some of the area's restaurants, hotels, and country clubs but there's nothing like eating it fresh from the source. If you're as blown away as I was, considering picking up a loaf or five to take home.

Despite feeling wholly satisfied with our pre-meal, the sandwiches finally arrived and it was time to see if the appetizer was a fitting prelude and all the praise was well warranted. Now, I've eaten some pretty incredible sandwiches over the years and throughout the world but none that I can remember have been quite as impeccable as what was placed on the table before me at The French Pantry. Fresh, delicious ingredients on amazing bread, all in a perfectly balanced combination. Both sandwiches were delightful and far too much to finish in one sitting and even after a day they still held up.

I would gladly eat at The French Pantry every day but, unfortunately, that's not an option. Again, they're only open weekday lunches from 11am to 2:15pm and you're likely to confront long lines and crowds but it's worth every grueling minute. A true hidden gem, an anomaly in this region. Justifiably a little pricier than what you're used to but also far more delicious than you could imagine. I cannot wait until the next time.



The French Pantry
6301 Powers Ave
Jacksonville, FL 32217
(904) 730-8696

Sam Won Garden Restaurant

With only two authentic restaurants, Korean cuisine is criminally under-represented and under-appreciated in Jacksonville's food scene. While it doesn't strike me as being too odd, per se, this is perhaps a bit tragic since there are some strong stylistic parallels between Korean cuisine and that of the great American barbecue with its heavy focus on meat and plethora of side dishes.

Perhaps the oversight is due to innocent ignorance, perhaps its that these places are so hard to find. Sam Won Garden, the only Korean restaurant I've tried in the area, looks more like a strip club from the parking lot and is right next to the Duval County Tax Collectors office; definitely not some place one voluntarily travels. Even inside, the intoxicating scent of charred livestock and the tables with cooking appliances do little to dispel the suspicion that at any moment the place could erupt with an explosion of lights, debauchery, and dollar bills. But in spite of the strange ambiance, an excellent meal awaits any who dare enter.

However, I must issue one warning. Beware the soju. Soju is a Korean spirit traditionally made from rice with an alcohol content that can land anywhere between 20% and 40%. It's similarity to sake and it's inherent sweetness can deceive the curious consumer and you may find yourself far more inebriated than you'd planned.

It's easy to experience a slight tinge of sticker shock when glancing at Sam Won's menu. Most of the prices really aren't that high and, when you consider the amount of food you end up with, you're actually getting quite a deal.

A great place to start is the kalbi, a meal highly recommended for any lover of good barbecued beef. Kalbi, or galbi, is a dish made with beef (or pork, but it's just beef at Sam Won) short ribs marinated in a ganging (Korean soy sauce) based sauce. It would be far too arduous a task to accurately describe how delicious this dish is but it's enough to make a borderline vegetarian question their aversion to consuming meat. The kalbi can seem a bit pricey at first but there's enough food for two and, of course, there's also the sides.

Korean cuisine is famous for its variety of side dishes. At Sam Won, the side dishes are included with the meal and can essentially be replenished until you're satisfied (come on now, let's not be too greedy). There's the traditional kimchi (pickled and fermented vegetables, usually cabbage), sprouts, various vegetables, tofu, squid, and an assortment of other small offerings. While not quite the same as coleslaw, potato salad, and baked beans, one can easily see the parallels drawn to American barbecue.

Another great dish to try is the ‪Dolsot Bibimbap‬. The literal translation of bibimbap is mixed rice and my first encounter with this traditional Korean meal took place thousands of feet above the surface of our pleasant little planet. Although I quite enjoyed the first experience, I knew full well that airline food always pales in comparison to meals available at ground level so I was compelled to try it again on my next visit to Sam Won.

Dolsot bibimbap is served in a VERY hot stone pot, so hot that the meal continues to cook for minutes. In addition to the rice (which is pleasantly caramelized around the edges because of the extreme heat), the dish contains beef, mushrooms, cucumber, zucchini, bean sprouts, daikon, sea weed, lettuce, and some other vegetation. An egg is cracked on top and quickly fries in the heat. The flavor is complex and rich and the meal is wholly satisfying; the perfect remedy for a deep hunger.

The next time you're in the mood for barbecue I'd suggest a slight deviation towards the Korean variety. But beware, one taste of kalbi and you may never again be able to stomach Sonny's or Bono's monotony.




Sam Won Garden Restaurant
4345 University Boulevard South,
Jacksonville, FL 32216
(904) 737-3650‎

Beethoven's Bistro

It's amazing what you can find in this sprawling expanse of a city if only you commit to looking hard enough. The internet and sites like Urbanspoon have become invaluable tools in uncovering great little eateries around town. But even with the power of the internet and GPS at our disposal, Beethoven's Bistro on Roosevelt, a recent web-enabled find, was so well hidden that we drove past it several times. But we eventually found it and eagerly wandered in for some breakfast.

Breakfast, as I've mentioned in the past, is not a meal my ilk have traditionally ventured out to consume but I married into a clan of go-out-for-breakfasters so I've learned to adapt... in a way. In actuality, every breakfast excursion I've gone on has been preceded by another breakfast so I essentially treat the meal as a very early lunch. I do enjoy much of the egg-centric breakfast fare, it's just hard to wait that long to eat.

First off, as a coffee snob, I must joyfully extoll the virtue of the quality coffee served up in this place. A far cry from the weak tasting dish water they pour at the Waffle House (and, sadly, at some of the area's otherwise decent diners), this coffee actually has flavor and body. Additionally, most drinks are included with your food so you see one price for your meal (a cappuccino, latte, mocha, or chai will cost you extra).

Being unable to resist the promise of a great omelet, we found ourselves ordering the "Build Your Own Omelette". You can choose any and all of the following ingredients for one price: Ham, Bacon, Sausage, Peppers, Onions, Mushrooms, Tomato, and Cheese. Granted, the price is $9.75 but, as mentioned previously, your drink is included and the omelette also comes with hash browns and a croissant. The croissant turned out to be almost an entire meal itself. Rich, buttery, and fluffy; croissants are one of the few pastries I'll make an exception for if they're made right and this one fit the criteria. You can also get a bagel instead and, again, it turns out to be almost an entire meal unto itself.

The omelette was up there among the best I've had. The ingredients were noticeably fresh and flavorful. But if an omelette is not your thing, there's a good variety of other items to choose from. Really, for such a little place, Beethoven's Bistro has an impressive menu. The daily breakfast and lunch menus remain pretty constant but the Sunday brunch menu, the Monday night dinner menu, and the Wednesday - Saturday full dinner menu all change each week. They also host special, themed dinner events(such as the upcoming Deep Fried Turkey Dinner on Sunday, March 7).

Truly a unique little place with a cozy atmosphere, great food, and service that transcends the typical restaurant relationship; you're treated like a friend, not a customer. It's a shame that we only discovered this place by actively looking for something new. This one deserves a good word of mouth reputation, let's make it happen.

(PS. Sorry about the poor quality pictures, I forgot my camera again. I'll put better shots up when I go back.)



Beethoven's Bistro
5917 Roosevelt Blvd., Unit 1
Jacksonville, FL 32244
(904) 771-6606

Pacific Asian Bistro

Sushi restaurants are everywhere, a common feature along our strip-mall lined streets, whereas a decade ago they were but a rarity. For lover's of raw fish and rice, the abundance of options means you never need to wander for from home for a good meal. And the First Coast region does indeed have its fair share of really good, even great, little sushi joints. But an unfortunate consequence of this surplus of options is that finding an extraordinary sushi restaurant can be quite difficult, particularly with the impetus to skimp on the quality in favor of economy like the rest of the competition.

Once upon a time there was a restaurant called Botan that was conveniently situated on my way home from work. For a great many months, my co-workers and I would frequently stop in and order horrendous amounts of sushi. This, of course, led to us directly interacting with the Sushi chefs whom, as anyone who ever visited Botan in its heyday can attest, were masters of their craft and would surprise us with unique culinary creations that were nowhere to be found on the menu. Sadly, due to differences between the owners, Botan was quite suddenly sold off and became a shell of its former self.

About a year later, Mas, former Botan sushi chef and consummate culinary artist, resurfaced again with a new restaurant: Pacific Asian Bistro. Located down in Palencia Village near the northern edge of St. Augustine, Pacific serves up all the typical Chinese and Japanese influenced fusion dishes we've come to expect from Asian bistros but at a much higher standard. From the familiar hibachi plates to the common Chinese restaurant fare, the names of the menu items are the same but the taste, presentation, and overall quality stretch far beyond what you've come to expect.

Additionally there are a lot of uncommon items. Delectable lamb chops were on offer on our recent visit. These succulent morsels, which even the chef admitted were not up to his standards, were far more delicious than any I've had the pleasure of tasting at some of Jacksonville's better known fine-dining establishments. Another treat was some monkfish liver: a musky, creamy (and slightly controversial) delicacy popular in upscale sushi bars.

But it's really in the sushi department where Pacific delivers unparalleled excellence. Every piece of sashimi, every roll, every gourmet creation is flawless. You will find a lot of the standards here, from simple rolls and sashimi to decadent, sculptured tempura monsters. These are all exceptionally crafted using fresh, flavorful ingredients. There are even some incredibly novel and equally delicious special rolls that are part art, all flavor. But if you want to treat yourself to something extraordinary, take a seat at the sushi bar and ask for a surprise.

The menu at Pacific is a suggestion, a guide for those who need to know exactly what to expect. For the more adventurous, for those with high culinary standards, the real trick is to leave your meal up to the chef. Perhaps you can go as far as suggesting what you like and maybe what you'd prefer to avoid, but trusting Mas with the final decision on what you're going to eat is the best course of action. I can't begin to tell you the names of the items I ate as they don't seem to be on the menu, but every single plate was incredible. You probably won't get exactly what you were expecting and if you'd see the item before you on the menu, chances are that you wouldn't have selected it, but the end result is always more than satisfactory.

At Pacific you will find the best sushi North Florida has to offer and I limit it to this region only because it's where I have the most experience. The prices are a bit higher than most of the other sushi restaurants around but well worth the cost and certainly not as expensive as comparable, upscale establishments. After all, what's a few extra dollars and miles when the food is this extraordinary?


Pacific Asian Bistro
159 Palencia Village Drive
St. Augustine, FL 32095
(904) 808-1818
mas@pacificasianbistro.com

Pho Cali

There are some restaurants in Jacksonville that you would never find unless you'd been told about them. Neither wrong turns nor detours would be likely to bring you by their door and, even if they did, you probably wouldn't even notice.

Pho Cali, one of Jacksonville's small handful of Vietnamese restaurants (and I think for a while, the one-and-only), is almost completely hidden and, like Vietnam's own Perfume Pagoda, you might just need a guide to get here.

Located in a Ramada hotel off a small street that bridges University and Bowden, one can't be blamed for never noticing the place as it's in a rather obscure part of town on a street that sees relatively little traffic. The sign is a little more prominent now than when I was first brought here for lunch a couple years ago but I still don't think I'd notice it were I to accidentally drive by.

In many previous posts I've stated my fondness for a good hole-in-the-wall and this restaurant is basically the textbook definition. I won't risk making any offensive remarks by describing the interior but I will warn that general decor and atmosphere, seemingly unchanged since the 70s, could be enough to send some people running. However, I personally believe it only serves to enhance the experience and prefer that all the effort remain focused on the food.

The service is prompt and courteous. Being family owned and operated, it's always the same mother and son duo taking orders and delivering the food while the patriarch toils away in the back to concoct the authentic Vietnamese cuisine for all who know well enough to stop by.

The name comes in part from the primary food served: Pho. Pho is a Vietnamese soup made from thinly sliced meat, rice noodles, and spices (typically including Saigon cinnamon, star anise, charred ginger, and cloves). It is often served with basil, lime, sprouts and peppers on the side that can be added at will by the consumer. I started referring to it as swamp soup to my co-workers who would often frequent Pho Cali for lunch because it really does look and feel like you're devouring a small swamp or pond. Please excuse me, I have a vivid imagination.

The Pho comes in three sizes: small, medium, and large (take that, Starbucks), all for very reasonable prices. I must caution you that these sizes run a little large. I have never been able to [comfortably] finish a small by myself and a medium is more than sufficient for two very hungry people to share. Looking to go large? Just make sure to bring some goggles.

For those not interested in the soup, there are plenty of rice and noodle based meals. The one pictured above, a spicy chicken dish whose name escapes me (number 32 on the menu, I can remember that much) has an incredibly varied flavor as the different spices hit your tongue, the most intriguing of all being the lemongrass which provides a subtly sweet contrast to the savory overtones.

Being that we're planning a trip to Vietnam later this year, I think we'll be obliged to stop by a bit more often in order to fully prepare for the trip. This also means we'll have to sample some of the other local Vietnamese restaurants I discovered in the process of gathering details for this post.


Pho Cali Vietnamese Restaurant
5624 Cagle Rd
Jacksonville, FL 32216-5911
(904) 730-7333‎
Monday - Saturday: 10am - 9pm
Sunday: 10am - 8pm