Johnny Angel's Diner

Our streets are lined with repeating sequences of fast food peddlers and big chain restaurants. Like them or not, they are the very models of American capitalism and have become one of our nation's largest exports, pioneers of the Western cultural empire. But despite the omnipresence and nigh omnipotence of these multinational giants, the true cultural icon of American restaurants is the humble, family owned and operated diner. Variety, simplicity, endless coffee, and all-day-breakfast are but a few of the qualities that make the American diner the perfect place to relax, converse, and have a meal or, as Hollywood has shown time and time again, shoot a candid scene.

Diners exploded across the US during the early 20th century and many would say that they had their heyday during the 1950's. Jacksonville's own Johnny Angel's Diner attempts to capture the essence and vibrant optimism of this monumental decade when the world's civilizations were undergoing radical changes and the US, in the midst of a post-war economic boom, began its decades long youth-based cultural revolution. Located near the intersection of Saint Johns Bluff and Beach Boulevard and not to be confused with Angel's Diner in Palatka, another fantastic hole in the wall, this place merely recalls the heyday of diners rather than harkening from that bygone era. Pictures of 50's and 60's celebrities line the walls and the televisions play classic shows like "I Love Lucy" and "The 3 Stooges".

Glancing at the expansive menu, the food appears fairly typical despite many of the items being named after celebrities, songs, and shows from the mid 20th century (Blueberry Hill Pancakes, Big Bopper Steak and Eggs, The Richie Cunningham). There are a few modern creations like the Baja Burrito (blackened fish, fresh salsa, lettuce, cilantro, and Monterey Jack cheese on a sun-dried tomato wrap) but the choices, by large, are standard diner fare. The quality, on the other hand, isn't so typical.

The siren's call of the fish burrito was strong but in the end the Ozzie and Harriet won out. A three egg omelette packed with fresh mushrooms, peppers, onions, tomatoes, broccoli, and zucchini; this has to be the best and biggest veggie omelette in at least all of North Florida. The eggs were light and fluffy while the vegetables still retained much of their crispness. Served with some salad greens, a biscuit, and grits (because this is the South), this enormous meal will leave you full of food, not full of regret.

But if you want some more traditional diner fare, don't hesitate to order a burger. Succulent, fresh, and bordering on the excessively large, it puts many of the top rated burger joints around town to shame.

The shakes have a reputation for being quite sublime. Sadly, I cannot give any first-hand evidence of their excellence but they're definitely on the to-do list. Those looking for a more decadent dessert can choose from a selection of sundaes, pies, cake, or grab one of the brick-sized brownies sitting on the counter.

Whether you're looking to celebrate American culture, indulge in a little bit of 50's nostalgia, or just grab a good meal, Johnny Angel's Diner is one of the best options you probably never knew you had.

Johnny Angel's Diner
3546 Saint Johns Bluff Rd S
Jacksonville, FL 32224-2713
(904) 997-9850

Big Talbot Island State Park

It breaks my heart a little every time someone says that there aren't any interesting outdoors areas in this region of ours.

So there's no mountains, no snow capped peaks, not even a hill to speak of. Our handful of ancient ruins and historical sites are flanked by souvenir shops. There are no natural lakes, only man-made retention ponds. But there are indeed some treasures of the natural world hidden behind the endless and seemingly uniform walls of trees.

The Big Talbot Island State Park is one of the most amazing sites upon which I've had the pleasure of treading. Most of the parks in our region, be they state, national, or local, have some incredible landscapes, natural features, and nature trails (upon which it is not uncommon to see a few interesting creatures) but Big Talbot Island has probably the most unique feature out of them all.

But first, an overview. Here's what the official site has to say:

Located on one of Northeast Florida’s unique sea islands, Big Talbot Island State Park is primarily a natural preserve providing a premier location for nature study, bird-watching, and photography. Explore the diverse island habitats by hiking Blackrock Trail to the shoreline, Big Pine Trail to the marsh or Old Kings Highway and Jones Cut through the maritime forest.

Launch a boat from the north end of the island to fish and tour the salt marsh or rent a kayak and take a guided paddle tour with Kayak Amelia, (888) 30-KAYAK (305-2925). Kayak tours require advanced reservation.

Visit The Bluffs and enjoy a picnic at one of the pavilions overlooking the water or take a quick stroll down the trail to Boneyard Beach. The unique beach is famous for the salt washed skeletons of live oak and cedar trees that once grew near the shore.

Boneyard Beach, or as it's known among many less-creative locals (present party included): Dead Tree Beach, is a majestic site to behold. Arriving at this beach for the first time can be like walking into a dream. The enormous carcasses of ancient oaks litter the shoreline, dumped into the sand and waters as the sea gradually washes the ground out from underneath them. It's a mystical place that carries the emotional weight of sacred ground without requiring a contrived story. So much comes to mind but there's not a lot I can relate. Perhaps it's best you experience the wonder for yourself.

Unless, of course, you're one of those people who feels compelled to carve your initials into trees or stone. If that's the case then I suggest you just go play in traffic instead and leave the natural wonders to those who truly appreciate them.

Tread lightly and with respect.

Admission Fees:
$2.00 per vehicle.
$2.00 per person to access the George Crady Bridge Fishing Pier.
$3.00 per vehicle entrance fee to access the Bluffs picnic area.
$4.00 to use the boat launch.

Big Talbot Island State Park
12157 Heckscher Drive
Jacksonville, Florida 32226
(904) 251-2320

Beachcomber

There are a lot of little restaurants hidden in St. Augustine Beach. Having lived in St. Augustine for a good while, I ought to be ashamed of myself for knowing about a very limited number of them but my penchant for discovering new eateries (and my ability to afford the habit) has only developed over the years since migrating further North. Now that they're so far away, it's a matter of finding an excuse for the trip.

Search for St. Augustine Beach restaurants on Google and the first result is Beachcomber. Strange, considering there are some more well known restaurants on the same list and, prior to our visit, I hadn't even heard of the place. But if any one restaurant embodies the St. Augustine Beach area, it might just be this one.

Beachcomber is a small wooden shack on the beach. Right on the beach… with half of the beach's sand on the floor of the restaurant. Salty water vapor blows in through the wide-open doors and the sunlight reflecting off the sand bathes the interior in a warm, desert glow. And then there's the heat, oppressive and unrelenting. The ceiling fans spin in a vain attempt to provide an illusion of a cool breeze.

Reading some online reviews, a few people said they have good burgers but, having turned up for breakfast, we decided (or perhaps the decision was made for us) to go with the traditional morning fare.

Breakfast burrito, a measuring stick of sorts. I'll admit, it didn't look like much and I was a little disappointed on first glance. But it actually tasted pretty good, far better than its drab appearance implied, perhaps an apt analogy for the place as a whole.

And what breakfast out is complete without coffee? Lots of coffee. Endless coffee.

Nice atmosphere, nice warm light, full bar. Were I actually a journalist and writing about something worthwhile, I could imagine myself stumbling into the place in a Hunter S. Thompson inspired haze with a typewriter tucked under my arm or a dictaphone in hand, filling up on alternating cups of coffee and rum and letting loose a barely coherent stream of consciousness rant about all things insane and unjust in this crazy world of ours. For now I'll just grab a breakfast burrito and relax in the warm, hazy glow.

Beachcomber
2 A St
St Augustine, FL 32080-6902
(904) 471-3744

Whitey's Fish Camp

What exactly is a fish camp? There seems to be quite a few of them around the region and the terminology is rather confusing. Is it a trick? Do they lure the fish in with promises of climbing, archery, and campfire sing-alongs only to tip them into a vat of boiling oil, fry them up, and serve them with coleslaw and hush puppies? What exactly is a hush puppy?

One thing these fish camps all have in common is that they're all practically out in the middle of nowhere. With Clark's, you have to drive through an obscure residential area. To get to Whitey's, just turn onto Doctor's Inlet Road from Blanding or 17 and drive until you think you're lost. You'll find yourself, funnily enough, on an inlet connected to Doctor's Lake. Park your truck on the gravel, spit out that chaw, wipe your boots, and make your way through that there door.

But don't fret, fellow suburbanite. You don't have to be a redneck to gain admittance to Whitey's, you just might not stick out as much if you are. I would advise, however, that you come with a big appetite and a taste for down south cookin'.

We rolled up to Whitey's around about Sunday brunch time. While the other folk accompanying me opted for a more traditional breakfast of biscuits, hog parts, eggs, and so on, I decided to get a little fancy and order me some shrimp 'n' grits. Grits are one of those foods I'd love to hate but, much to my horror, I love the stuff especially when they've got a bit of good cheddar mixed in (see Seven Bridges or Mojo's for some stellar examples). What I got was more of a gruel (no defining grits texture) because of the copious amounts of cheese. But with the peppers, onions, bacon, and plethora of shrimp, added to the mix, I had one tasty and very, very rich meal. Fearing coronary failure I had to stop myself after finishing half of the immense portion and save the rest for later. And I did finish the rest, every last decadent bite.

The typical offerings are much more varied (and in some cases, strange) than what we got to choose from for our Sunday brunch. There's a Swamp Menu with gator, turtle, frogs legs, and soft shelled crab. There is, of course, a lot of seafood and all you can eat catfish.

Every night of the week there's something going on at Whitey's. On Monday there's all you can eat crab legs and beer pong. Wednesday there's all you can eat wings and it's happy hour all night. There's music most nights of the week and other crazy happenings so you know exactly where to go if you wanna get your boogie on. Well, maybe not exactly. Perhaps you should look the address up on your GPS first.

Whitey's Fish Camp
2032 CR 220,
Orange Park, FL 32003
(904) 269-4198
fishcamp@bellsouth.net